One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster

Unfortunately, due to Covid and the fairly high prices for tickets to Bangkok, I haven´t been to Bangkok for five years. But it´s on the list for 2024.

Similar to other cities like Dresden, Budapest, Madrid and Boston, Bangkok holds a special place in my life. Back when I started working my company put me in Bangkok for 6month to work on projects in Singapore and Perth, Australia. Obviously, being young with a nice Expat salary you have a blast in Bangkok. Back then I had crazy nights in Bangkok, now my nights are much quieter, but still, plenty of fun.

Reclining Buddha in Wat Pho

Travelling to Bangkok

Most travellers from outside Thailand arrive in Bangkok to one of its two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Mueang International Airport.

Suvarnabhumi Airport is mainly for big international carriers and caters to most of the long-haul and connecting markets. And it´s also the main airport for Thai Airways. Don Mueang Airport is catering to Low-cost airlines and therefore, mostly serving domestic and regional markets. It´s the main Airport for AirAsia. Personally, I prefer Suvarnabhumi Airport as it´s easier to get to the main neighbourhoods in Bangkok.

From Suvarnabhumi Airport take the Air Rail link to BTS stop at Phaya Thai. From there you can connect to Sukhumvit line. Alternatively, you can take a taxi (insist on them putting the meter on or negotiate the fare well, should not be much more than 300 Baht). You can also order one through Grab or get one of the limousine services (great when you´re jetlagged and just want to get to your hotel).

Don Mueang Airport now has a train service from Krungthep Apiwat Station (close to Chatuchak). From there you can connect to the Metro. Alternatively, you can get a Taxi (should be as well around 300 Baht or order it via Grab).

To Khao San Road the most convenient way is to get a Taxi, as it´s not really connected to the BTS and metro system. You can also check the bus.

With its two airports Bangkok is a great base for travelling in Southeast Asia, especially for Laos, Cambodia, and Myanmar. And obviously for domestic destinations like Phuket, Ko Samui (with Ko Pha-ngan) and Chiang-Mai.

Long-distance trains (incl. night trains to Chiang Mai) these days leave from and arrive at the new train station Krungthep Apiwat Station. Nevertheless, some local and regional trains still leave and arrive at Hualamphong station (the original main train station in the heart of Bangkok).

What to do

Even though Bangkok is a mega-polis, most of its sights are close to each other, which makes it easier to explore. The main sight is the Grand Palace incl. Wat Phra Kaew. Make sure you dress well; men need to wear long pants and women should wear something up to knees.

The best way for me to get to the Grand Palace is by boat. Take the Orange Express Boat from Sathorn Ferry Pier (right below Saphan Taksin BTS station) up to stop N8. Then it´s a mere 10-15mins walk. Make sure you have some small change as they don´t take cards. You´ll have a great view on the city and Wat Arun in particular.

Bangkok is the city of temples and within walking distance of the Grand Palace you have Wat Arun opposite riverside of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho (Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Rajwaramahawihan) with the famous reclining Buddha, Wat Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworamahawihan with the Giant Swing and Wat Saket Ratchawora Mahawihan, the Golden Mount. Visiting a temple, you should always make sure you respect the rules and dress-code, cover your shoulders and the pants/skirts should be at least knee-length. Also entering a temple, you must take of your shoes, so if you visit multiple in one tour, I recommend flip-flops or sandals. Even though I never got mine stolen, be careful and don´t wear the fanciest ones.  Also, entering the temple always step over the raised threshold, never on it. Also, never stand with your back towards Buddha.

There are plenty of more unique temples like the Erawan Shrine (next to BTS stop Chit Lom) and Wat Traimit Withayaram Worawihan (close to train station Hualamphong and Chinatown).

Other interesting sights and areas to visit is Chinatown and the Khao San Road. In Chinatown be prepared for narrow cramped streets with markets and all kinds of strange things. Khao San Road, is still the backpacker’s paradise with plenty of cheap hostels and bars. It´s particularly great for a night out but be ready for plenty of young folks from around the world. One museum I highly recommend is the Jim Thompson House Museum, the residence of the famous the famous American businessman who helped revitalize the Thai Silk industry. Quite impressive compound with plenty of historical houses and artifacts.

As most of Asian cities, shopping is a pastime thing here. So, no wonder that there are plenty of opportunities in Bangkok. One of my personal favourites is Chatuchak (or JJ market), the famous weekend market. You can easily spend a whole day there and still only scratched the surface. I recommend going there early in the morning before the masses and heat arrives. It´s a massive area south of Chatuchak Park next to BTS station Mo Chit. If you go, don´t just walk around the main road as those tend to be to more expensive stalls, go inside and explore the other alleys (Soi´s). It´s fairly easy to navigate Chatuchak as most goods are clustered in Sections. In sections the different Soi´s (alleys) run in parallel. But stay away from the pet’s section, not a great experience. If you look for something more high-end and less crowded check Chatuchak Playa behind the food stalls in Section 27. While there, make sure you try the Malay tea and some of the best skewers in town.

Traffic in Bangkok - Road and BTS

The area around BTS Siam (the crossing of Sukhumvit and Silom BTS lines) has some great Malls, including Siam Paragon, Siam Center, Siam Square One, MBK and Centralworld. I always make sure to visit Siam Paragon and MBK. Siam Paragon has most of the high-end brands. For me the highlights are the food court downstairs, the supermarket next to the food court (stock up on Curry pastes, Thai tea and sweets) and the Thai Craft shop on the top floor (make sure to get some Silk, Thai Celadon or Mother-of-Pearls boxes). It also has a huge aquarium downstairs for rainy days or when you´re with kids. MBK merely few minutes’ walk from Siam Paragon (even though can be difficult to find your way, you can go one stop with the Silom line to National Stadium) houses plenty of clothes and souvenirs stalls. I wouldn´t go there for brands (probably most are fake), but for the cool Thai designer stores or if you´re looking for a tailor. On the second floor is one of my favourite stores for t-shirts with cool prints. Some other shopping malls and markets not to miss, especially in the evenings are IconSiam (great food court and fun light show) and Asiatique (more relaxed evening market with some nice craft and designer stalls). You can reach both by boat (just make sure you hop on the right one) from Sathorn Ferry Port, just below Saphan Taksin station (Silom Line).

If you´re able to make it to Bangkok between 13 and 15 April, get ready for being splashed with water walking on the streets. It´s the time of Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year. Especially around Sukhumvit and Khao San Road there´s plenty of party going on.

As mentioned, Bangkok is a massive mega-polis that can get overwhelming especially for the Westerners. There are plenty of area´s in and around Bangkok to escape the hustling and bustling. One of the easy ones are the parks: check Chatuchak Park or Lumphini Park. If you like beer or coffee check Ko Kret, a little island a bit out of town to the northwest. On Ko Kret you have one of the only small craftbeer breweries in town: Chitbeer. And if you want some more green, go to Bang Krachao. Just rent a bike and take a boat over the river. It´s a beautiful area incl. the Bangkok Tree House. Further to the southeast you have the Erawan Museum with some impressive statues of Erawan and mythical creatures. For a day trip I highly recommend Ayutthaya, the former Thai capital destroyed by the Khmer in the 18th century and its many ruins.

If you love Thai food like me, do a cooking class. I did one with Sompong Thai Cooking School and it included a Market visit and cook booklet. It was so much fun and totally worth it.

I can´t write a blog post about Bangkok (especially with the title) and not talk about the Bangkok nightlife. The Havana Social Club is a must for some good enjoyable fun. If you´re looking for more crazy party and dancing check out Khao San Road or Sukhumvit Soi 11. If you´re looking for some gay bars (Thailand being one of the most gay-friendly country in Asia) best head to Silom around Sala Daeng BTS Station (around Silom Soi 2 and Soi 4). With the warm weather all year-round, Bangkok is best for some open-air restaurants and roof-tops: check the Area around Nana BTS station, Sala Daeng BTS Station and Asiatique for some great options.

Where to stay

For me the best neighbourhoods to stay in Bangkok are Sukhumvit, Lumphini (around Chit Lom and Ploen Chit BTS station), around Ratchathewi BTS station, and Sathorn.

I normally stay in Lumphini area (close to Ploen Chit BTS station, Wireless Road) or Ratchathewi BTS Station.

Sukhumvit road is one of the main streets in Bangkok and stretches from Ploen Chit BTS station all the way to Akamai and further down. Between Ploen Chit and Asok you´ll find most of the business hotels, but it´s a bit sketchy for me. Still great for bars and restaurants. After Asok you got some great hotels as well and it becomes more residential with plenty of condo-buildings.

In Sathorn you find plenty of hotels between Sala Dang and Saphan Taksin. You have pleny of options and some of the best restaurants and bars.

The Riverside make for some great stays as well with some of the best five-star hotels in town (around Icon Siam Park).

Khao San Road is still the best place for backpackers with all its hostels and bars.

Food & Drinks

For some great Thai food, I always make sure I stop by Cabbage & Condoms in Sukhumvit Soi 12. Besides the amazing food it also has a great mission to foster the talents of young people and offers apprenticeships. And the “Condoms” part of the names highlights their involvement in sexual education programs in the country. I mentioned the food-court in Siam Paragon before which is perfect to stop by for a snack (Thais love their snacks). Another great food-court is Eathai in Central Embassy mall (it also has a great supermarket) close to Ploen Chit BTS station. If you´re more adventurous check the food hall on Sukhumvit road next to Legacy Express hotel. For some great burgers check Iron Fairies in Sukhumvit Soi 39, it has also some live music every now and then. For some of the best food night market check Rot Fai II Nightmarket (Rot Fai Ratchada), take metro to Thailand Cultural Center and there it´s just around the corner.

If you love craftbeer like me, Bangkok has some great and fairly unique options. Two of my favourites are Hair of the Dog (they have two locations, one close to Ploenchit and the other close to Phrom Phong BTS station) and Brewski a roof-top with a massive selection of beers in the Radisson Blu hotel between Asok and Phrom Phong BTS station. As mentioned before Chitbeer on Ko Kret is amazing and great for a day trip. Another good option is Beer Republic close to Chit Lom BTS station and Mash craftbeer.

Besides Brewski, Bangkok has some of the best roof-top bars in Asia. My ultimate favourites are Sky Bar (beautiful staircase on top of the State tower) and Vertigo (the original roof-top in Banyan Tree hotel). Above 11 in Sukhumvit Soi 11 makes for a nice after-work or after-dinner drink. If you´re looking for another great roof-top in Sathorn that has astonishing view as well during the day check ZOOM Sky Bar on top of the JC Kevin hotel. A friend who was recently in Bangkok recommended it to me.

Besides food and beers Bangkok offers some create places for cocktails. Iron Balls (which is actually a Gin distillery) is a must try. Another one is J. Boroski (Cocktail bar) not far from Iron Fairies. They have a great concept: rather than choosing from a menu, you tell them what you´re looking for and they mix a cocktail accordingly. Back in my early days in Bangkok the place for after-work drinks was Cheap Charlies in Sukhumvit Soi 11. Unfortunately, as modernization of the area progressed, they shut it down and moved it further out the city to On Nut BTS station. Still a fun place to hang out, only a bit further out-of-town.

Travelling around Bangkok

Geeting around Bangkok can be taunting, but the public transport is improving. I try as much as possible to use the BTS system (incl. the Metro) as it´s the easiest way to get around. Taxis are abundant but you need to ensure the driver puts the meter on. Another alternative is to order your ride via Grab.

The Express Boats on Chao Praya River are great to visit the main sights like Wat Arun, Wat Pho, or the Grand Palace (on the orange express line get off at stop N8).

I think TukTuk´s overstated and overpriced. But if you want to take them, make sure to negotiate the price before.

Best Photography Spots in Bangkok

For some of the best photo spots you don´t have to look far in Bangkok: the temples make for great photo opportunities. In particular Wat Arun and Wat Pho (Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Rajwaramahawihan), both are also great for night shoots. For some other great opportunities check the river front (IconSiam) and China town. For a stunning view over the city (especially at night) check Sky Bar (on top of State tower). One of the most unique places is the Erawan Museum with its statues and buildings.

I hope with all the above, I could help with planning your next trip to Bangkok.

Here a link to my Bangkok site which gives you some ideas of what to expect.